If your stove or oven still has temperature issues after the control-board repair, perform the thermal-component checks below before contacting tech support or returning the board under warranty.
What you’ll test:
• High-limit thermostat(s)
• Thermal fuse / cutoff
• Oven temperature sensor (RTD probe)
• Surface-unit limiters (if the cooktop is affected)
1. Unplug and Cool Down
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Disconnect power – pull the plug or switch the dedicated breaker OFF.
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Wait until every internal surface feels room-temperature; some fuses sit right against the oven liner.
2. Locate Each Component
| Part | Typical Location | Easy Clue |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal fuse / cutoff | Rear panel or control-board bracket | Small, inline metal can with two wires |
| High-limit thermostat | Back wall of cavity or on top of broil element housing | Round “button” thermostat with two terminals |
| RTD temperature sensor | Inside oven cavity, rear-upper corner | Long thin probe with two wires |
| Surface limiter | Clipped to each radiant element (glass tops) | Tiny metal disc hidden under main top |
Remove the back panel or lift the cook-top as your service manual shows; take a quick photo so you can re-route wires later.
3. Visual Inspection
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Look for melted insulation, discoloration, or a blown fuse window.
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Any charring means the part must be replaced.
4. Continuity / Resistance Tests
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Set multimeter to Ω or continuity.
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Isolate one wire from the device so you are not reading the rest of the circuit.
| Component | Normal Reading at 70 °F (21 °C) | Diagnosis |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal fuse | ≈ 0 Ω (beep) | OL / ∞ Ω = blown – replace |
| High-limit thermostat (not tripped) | ≈ 0 Ω | OL = opened by overheat – replace; also check airflow & fans |
| RTD oven sensor | ≈ 1,080 Ω ±10 Ω | <950 Ω or >1,250 Ω – replace |
| Surface limiter | ≈ 0 Ω closed | OL when cool = faulty limiter |
(Exact numbers vary by brand; consult the tech sheet tucked behind your control panel.)
Here are some other examples:
Temperature F (C) Resistance (Ohms)
100F (38C) 1143 Ohms
200F (94C) 1350 Ohms
300F (149C) 1553 Ohms
350F (177C) 1654 Ohms
400F (204C) 1753 Ohms
500F (260C) 1949 Ohms
600F (316C) 2142 Ohms
700F (371C) 2331 Ohms
800F (427C) 2516 Ohms
900F (483C) 2697 Ohms
1000F (538C) 2874 Ohms
5. Reassemble and Verify
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Replace any failed part with the exact temperature rating.
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Restore power and run a 350 °F bake cycle to confirm the oven preheats within 10–15 minutes and stays ±15 °F of the set temp.
6. Still Not Heating or Overheating After Good Thermal Checks?
A healthy sensor & fuse set rules out most simple causes. The next likely culprit is the electronic control board (ERC/EOC) misreading temperature or mis-driving relays.
Good news: UpFix can repair that original control board, saving you up to 80 % compared with ordering a brand-new board (many are discontinued). We’ll:
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Perform a full diagnostic on arrival and document what our techs found and fixed.
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Turn most boards around in 24 hours.
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Provide a detailed receipt with tech notes inside the box and online.
Ready to get cooking again? Send your board to UpFix today and keep a perfectly good appliance out of the landfill. Questions? Call/Text us 9 am – 5 pm EST or start your repair order at UpFix.com.
Tip: Always eliminate wiring shorts, burned connectors, or stuck relays on the control board before powering up a new thermal fuse—otherwise it can blow again instantly.